The Wandering Kohawk

León, Nicaragua
Welcome. My name is Mitchell and I'm a proud alumnus of Coe College and currently reside in León, Nicaragua. Most of this blog is about my travels over the past few years Enjoy!

Do you know somebody who knows somebody?

Sometime I think I will have to leave Rwanda. I think, furthermore, that that time will be before 2011. That being said, Father Frans (the director of the center) is getting nervous that he won't have a volunteer working on the farm after I leave.

Granted, I'm not a farmer, but being from Iowa I understand the basics and know how to drive a tractor, which qualifies me. So... are you, or do you know any good Iowa (or not) farmer (or not) boys who might be interested in coming to Africa for a year?

Experience is not really needed (me) but it could help. A desire to work hard, take initiative, interact with kids and explore a new culture are needed. Any age would also work. Chris is the youngest volunteer and Mark is the oldest volunteer at 63. In fact, we often talk how interesting it would be to have a retired Iowa farmer come here and volunteer for a while.

The program I volunteer with, the Salesian Lay Missioners, is a great program and I would encourage anyone to investigate because it covers many logistics and finances that can otherwise be prohibitive to volunteering. (If you're interested in this route, there is a discernment weekend in Chicago at the end of April for my midwest homies. More on the East coast in June) If you don't want to use this program and just show up, that's ok too!

Please please please, if you are even remotely interested, or know someone who might be contact me. I'm having the most amazing experience of my life and you should think about it.

You can email me at mitchelljlincoln@gmail.com

(I'm tagging random people in the Facebook version of this so the word spreads faster!)

The Joke That Wasn't That Funny

I attempted to have fun and play an April Fools joke on my blog this week. A combination of bad humor and a technical inability to tell people that it was a joke made the attempt not really funny at all. I know many people love me and care about me and were concerned. I'm very sorry if I caused you to worry or stress on my behalf. Yeah, that was just kind of dumb, I'm sorry.

April Fools!

So I'm not getting kicked out of Rwanda. However, I didn't make this story up either. In Rwanda people (especially loud NGO workers or government officials who don't follow the official party line) are regularly asked to leave or flee on their own for political reasons. There is an especially messy law about "Genocide Ideology" which enables the government to detain any person it suspects of having any genocidal thinking. This law is broadly and conveniently interpreted. I'm going to stop now, before I really do get into trouble (internet monitoring is real also) and wish everyone a happy Easter.

Sorry Mom.

Some troubles

I have been away from my blog for a while because it has been causing me a little bit of trouble. In my last post I wrote the phrase "benevolent dictator" which apparently doesn't go over well with the Rwandan government and raised a very big red flag with their internet scouring technology. I've had a few chats with the immigration office and recently they informed me that as of this week they are revoking my visa. I'm fighting with everything I have and the Salesian Provincial of Rwanda is even getting involved, however, I face potential arrest if I am not gone by Saturday, when my visa "expires."

For the time being I will be visiting the Salesian community in Kampala, Uganda. I'm pretty sure this may be an attempt to get something from me or the Salesians on the side of the Rwandan government, so there is hope of my return, but nothing is certain.

When I arrive in Kampala I will post more information, but as long as I am in Rwanda I must be careful how I use the internet. Happy Good Friday I guess.

Today I changed my toothbrush…

While this may seem like an unremarkable event in practicality, it symbolizes that I am halfway through my year’s supply of toothbrushes (two).  Yes, March 3 is exactly six months since I started this crazy journey by missing a plane in Moline.  While I like to think I’m the same person, I hope that I have maybe learned something, acquired some new skills, made an impact on somebody’s life or, if nothing else, have gotten a decent tan.  So I thought I’d take this moment to share some reflections… with the entire internet.  Enjoy.

The first thing is that I have learned is to live as a minority.  The strange looks in the street, the “muzungu” call from children and adults alike and having people talk about me without understanding have all taken getting used to.  I have always hated racism, and I don’t think this has changed my feelings, but definitely given me a new perspective.   However, its different.  “Minorities” in the US tend to be seen as poorer “lesser” people by racists.  Here, however, I am simply seen as the rich outsider, almost “better” than people here, if I can say that without invoking too much implication.  I would also challenge any person who thinks the United States should adopt an English-only law to live in a place where he doesn’t know the language.  It can be the most desperate, lonely feeling one can feel while surrounded by people.

Speaking of language, I have realized how bad we Americans are at learning them.  Most Africans and every European I have met here speaks at least two if not four languages.  I understand the practicality of it for them, and lack of necessity of it for us, but it can make a guy feel kind of dumb at times.

There is no baseball in Rwanda and this makes me sad.  On that train of thought, I really missed Hawkeye football and tailgating this fall, and could kill for a Busch Light in a snowy parking lot right now.

I’ve written this before, and I’ll write it again.  The privilege I have had in my life simply because of where I was born stares me in the face every day.  Thinking of the disparities of food, health, education, peace and lifestyles has drastically altered my view on life.

African culture suits me fairly well.  Schedules are “suggestions,” it is rude to discuss anything with a person unless proceeded by a short conversation about how they are doing, how their day has been, etc.  Every day is a concern about immediate needs, so a person doesn’t plan for tomorrow, rather, one lives for today, in the present, an attitude I am trying to live by.

These same things drive me insane, however.  I am frustrated by missed appointments and sometimes just want something, not a life story of formalities.  I read a book which sums up the African mindset very well, as people relying on “micro-solutions rather than macro-systems.”  This means that instead of waiting in line, which is a great Western macro-system, people rush a bus door to find a micro-solution to their problem of getting on the bus.  The examples of this are endless, but as much as I like to claim myself as a relaxed guy, I am learning that I really like my order and “macro-systems.”

There is something about the innocence of little children and their unconditional love that I had to travel halfway across the world to fully appreciate.  I hope this travels back with me.

I’m really starting to question the merits of development aid.  But this is a topic for a later discussion.

There is definitely some farming left in my blood.  While I am almost a generation removed from full time Iowa farmer, I can really appreciate the hard work and sense of satisfaction this profession provides.  Its a simple life, working the land, praying for weather and harvesting the crops, but inside me somewhere something in my blood has been awaken.

I feel very liberated by not earning a paycheck.  My basic needs are taken care of, I work out of desire to work, not a need to please a boss or to grind it out for payday.  While money makes life more comfortable, not having an abundance has its perks as well.

Genocide is a terrible, awful thing.  I’m still trying to think about how to best put into words my experiences, thoughts and reflections on this topic, but I’m not sure if they will ever materialize.

I live in a country with what some might call a “benevolent dictator.”  My Western mind didn’t like this at first, but I’m beginning to feel that maybe in some instances peace is a fair tradeoff for true democracy.

I have argued in many papers, presentations and debates that the developed world’s impact on the climate hurts the developing world the most.  Maybe its coincidence, but in the last few years (including this one) Rwanda’s centuries old seasonal rotation has been drastically changing.  Its good to know that at least some of my ideals are being reinforced.

Thanksgiving and Christmas are best spent in the Midwest with family.

I’m pretty sure I know where AIDS came from.  But I heard some different opinions on the radio a few months back (it was created as a weapon by the US to limit population control, for example).  This made me realize how much my perspective of being an American really affects the way I perceive information.  Its good to take a step back and look from a different view (just ask my European friends about US Foreign Policy!)

I am the de facto soccer and basketball referee.  Its good to know that wherever I officiate in the world, people still like to argue with the ref.  Or maybe I’m just a bad ref.

Its fairly likely that I will spend a majority of the rest of my life shaving and wearing a tie every day.  I’m OK with this, but I’m also very happy never doing either!

Picasa Pictures Online Now!

If you did not receive an email from me and you would like to have the URL to see my Picasa web albums, PLEASE EMAIL ME! Facebook and blogger is not a very good format for posting pictures or even sending messages because of slow internet, so I really want your email addresses!

I have 6 albums and probably over 200 pictures for those interested.

My address: mitchelljlincoln@gmail.com

A Time of Change

Things are changing in Gatenga.  As with all changes, some bring happiness, others sadness and some just go by without evoking any particular emotion.

The biggest noticeable change has been the season.  The rainy season is over and we have entered the short dry season, which means it is dry and extremely hot.  However, it is not supposed to be the dry season yet, so maybe this will end soon.  Regardless, the change in weather signals that it is time to harvest the corn crop.  This job is particularly satisfying for me, as I put in many hours and days of hard work to plant it.  The simple pleasure of planting a crop and then harvesting it is something I am really learning to enjoy.  The blood of my farming ancestors is strong in my veins!

As I have alluded to (and complained about) in countless blog posts, emails and Skype chats, the students have finally come back to Gatenga!  Classes were supposed to start on Tuesday, they haven’t really gotten around to that yet, but the students are still here!  Their presence changes the attitude of the center and overall makes me a happier person.  They have begun to work with me in the field, I eat lunch with them, pray with them and next week will begin coaching basketball again!

This change in Rwanda’s academic schedule has many other impacts on my life.  For example, starting tomorrow, I am hiring a tutor to teach me Frenh and Kinyrwanda.  Tres Bon!  Also, there IMG_0226was a small group of six students who worked at the center over   the holiday because the community pays for them to continue their education.  I became very close to these students, and I am so happy they have the means to continue their studies, but it is sad to see them go.

Most difficult for me, however, is the departure of my best friend, Minani.  Minani was the man who I did most work with on the farm, the one who showed me around on the first day and the one I always went to with questions.  On top of this, we would often go out for a drink after work, or attend various events together in Kigali.  He is my best friend here.  A couple weeks ago he asked DSCN0416my advice on taking a new job.  We had a long discussion about his hopes, dream and his future.  When I found out the new employer had offered to pay for him to go to university I was elated and heartbroken at the same time.  I know I will see him in the future and I’m extremely excited about his opportunity for education in a country where it is difficult, but I will miss seeing him every day.

I think because the school year is approaching and the work that comes with it, the community collectively decided to relax the weekend before.  Saturday night, at the suggestion of the American volunteers, we had a cookout and ate homemade sausages and hamburgers with freshly picked corn on the cob under the stars.  We also had a short volunteer conference for all IMG_0180 the Salesian volunteers in the province which culminated in a day long trip to Lake Muhazi on Sunday, to relax, eat, drink and swim.  And on Monday one of the priests took us to Akagera National Park.  Akagera is the tree-savannah, animal-packed park that you think of when thinking about Africa.  While we did not see the park’s giraffes, elephants or leopards, we saw antelope, zebra, bushbuck, impalas, monkeys, baboons, warthogs, crocodiles, hippos and countless bird species.

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IMG_0278 Also, for those of you who can’t get enough by just words alone, this weekend I expect to have my Picasa page up and running.  Please retain your excitement.